PITTI UOMO 90 14-17 June 2016 Fortezza da Basso, Florence
The Italian men’s tradeshow continues to prove its relevance and place in the fashion calendar. This powerful platform attracts a wide range of businesses, from niche brands, to international labels and top designers. This season the event hosted catwalk shows by Raf Simons, Fausto Puglisi, Vivism and Gosha Rubchinskiy with a photographic exhibition by Karl Lagerfeld.
This season’s theme of ‘Pitti Lucky Numbers’ looks at numbers in their pure graphic form and as symbols both in and out of fashion. Undici magazine set up 11 massive sail-like sculptures dedicated to the jersey numbers of legendary European football players and the designer Oliviero Baldini artfully decorated open spaces with numbers in colourful patterns. The show also features the work of talented video makers, installation artists and digital technicians overseen by creative head Sergio Pappalettera. For the duration of the tradeshow the historic city of Florence comes alive with pop up fashion events and art shows providing a buzz of creativity and flow of ideas everywhere you look.
This streetstyle report is the first of three issues that will cover the emerging trends in menswear, womenswear and accessory sectors. Street trends are an increasingly important source of information for designers, providing a fresh perspective on current fashion and indications for future design.
In this menswear report we analyse unique style of the dressers at Pitti Uomo, going beyond the ‘Pitti Peacocks’ and spotting the new influencers that will push trends forward. These men own their look with unique personal styling and confident use of colour and proportion.
Don’t miss the ultimate guide to Menswear trends from Pitti Uomo.
ATHLEISURE – styles have close links to sportswear but fundamental changes in materials and detailing either reduce designs down to essential lines or amp it up into the luxury league. bomber jackets upgraded in silk with embroidered motifs, are part of this luxury look. proportion is key and dominated by long jersey layers which extend over casual crop pants with rolled cuffs
GRAPHIC – key colours are primary shades providing the most impact for front printed t-shirts. the artist Barbara Kruger inspires box printed logos and Vetements influences a whole spectrum of outerwear with branding across the back yoke. allover surface pattern is key for summer shirts, casual trousers and two-piece shirt+shorts combinations. denim styles are customised with patches, painting and torn finishes
TAILORING – suits are dominated by the skinny silhouette, but these hard lines are softening into a looser trouser with a retro shape. here braces add an optional vintage detail for high-waist crop trousers. colour block suits feature elasticated hemlines and will have strong appeal for the youth sector. statement blazers come in vivid colour or bold stripes and shirts are feminised in lace, or patterned with frills or allover embroidery
WORKER – workwear inspired clothing adds a new aesthetic of simplicity in functional styles with practical details. Japanese inspired silhouettes are part of this clean look, which features judo-style jackets and kimonos. soft cotton shirts in dirty pastels or fatigue colours double as lightweight jackets. materials are natural and often tactile, in waffle or rib weaves and decoration is added in the form of embroidered patches