The London street scene brings out the best emerging trends. These original images show how women’s apparel is changing within each style category. In general there is an increase in proportion and volume, and this ‘taking up space’ reflects a growing confidence for womenswear. In styling there’s a contrast between delicate pieces that are sheer, second-skin or cutaway, with items which are oversized in more durable materials. Investment styles, such as coats or leather pieces come in safe, core colours but these are countered with bold-colour or bold-texture contrasts. This curated insight into trends is edited into a flow of looks, which is organised by style category.
CASUAL
Denim is part of the overarching trend for clothing in bold proportions. Jean skirts extend to longer midi and maxi lengths, while jeans puddle to the floor in wide-leg shapes. Metallic coatings and bold colours elevate this casual fabric to new heights, and deep indigo dyes smarten the look. Denim jackets are neatly teamed with shorts and short skirts, or oversized into long-length coats. Cargo pants are an important part of this casual trend and these are styled with tailoring, sporty pieces or casual outerwear.
DRESSES
Emerging styles are neatly-proportioned looks in short lengths, with retro detailing and interesting textures or subtle patterns. Also coming through are casual day-dresses with a sporty vibe or knit/jersey styles in body-hugging silhouettes. Dress drama is achieved for evening looks with severe cutouts and deep splits or two-piece dresses with a bare midriff. Feather trims add texture to necklines, while crystals or beadwork increase the glamour. Collars are an interesting focal point and these can be neat and dainty or long pointed retro shapes.
JERSEY
The construction of jersey enables designers to create versatile shapes and stretchy body-conscious silhouettes. The fabric moves forward with engineered mesh constructed with sheer lace panels and complex cutouts, creating next-level jersey clothing. These looks are often styled with loose cargo pants, sharp tailoring or casual jeans. Mesh jersey also lends itself to sublimation and digital printing, so it’s easy to achieve complex patterns or photo-quality prints for tops and dresses. The Y2K trend is reigniting a return to strapless, one-shoulder tops and branded sporty stripes for jersey styles.
LEATHER
Leather and leather-look materials are part of the growing trend for durable investment pieces. There is a surge of interest in leather jackets and coats as these are obvious choices for consumers looking for a solid, long-lasting purchase. Classic biker, moto and varsity jackets are pre-loved originals or replica pieces, while new contemporary versions are oversized in minimal lines. The durability of real and synthetic leather also means that it is perfect for trousers, skirts, tops and dresses. As with denim, there are experiments in metallic coating and bold colours, though the majority are seen in classic/core colours finished with a natural sheen or a polished shine.
OUTERWEAR
Trench coats are moving into oversized mac styles which have neat collars and a minimum of detailing. These cleaner styles push the emphasis onto materials and fastenings, or contrasts of pattern and texture. Removable sleeves or zip-away panels add to the versatility of classic trench-styles. Long length overcoats in tailored styles and high-quality fabrics are smart investment pieces. Dressy evening versions have added impact with sequins, feathers or sheer panels. Padded coats and jackets are oversized or shaped into wraps that cocoon the body.
SEPARATES
The trend for kilts has been fuelled by a nostalgia for ‘90s cute preppy styles mixed with the new aesthetic from designers like Chopova Lowena. Tailored short skirts, shorts and skorts are influenced by Miu Miu’s low-slung silhouettes. Alternative bottoms are trousers with added volume, which start with tucks or pleats at the waist, and ends at the floor. Longer skirts also feature added volume, here it is formed into structured pleats or appears in the subtle fluid lines of bias-cut skirts.. Blouses are feminised in peplum shapes with added puffs of fabric or frills, while shirts get the treatment in delicate printed sheer fabrics. Tops expose the midriff with crop lengths or the area is emphasised with high waistlines or belted details.
TAILORING
Oversized tailored jackets steal the show, adding a sharp contrast when styled with the dainty proportions of delicate tops and body-form dresses. Alternative jackets are shaped into the waistline with corset-like structure. The waist is also emphasised in jackets with a high-placed double breasted fastenings or crop length. Waistcoats and sleeveless tops are styled with tailored trousers and long-length pencil skirts with splits. Trousers are generally full with soft pleats, and belts are used to emphasise a raised or defined waistline. Relaxed-look trousers and skirts are also coming through with a lower waistline and slouchy fit.
TEXTURE
Knitwear offers an opportunity to add interesting texture, pattern or even sculpture-like forms. DESIGNers are mixing contrast flat and fluffy yarns into colourful panels or stripes to add impact to sweaters and cardigans. Knit tops and dresses feature cutout panels, zip necklines or split details to create new focal points. Fake fur jackets and coats are big on texture, and as a trim fur is also used effectively to emphasise linings, seams and outer edges. Brightly dyed feathers and frothy frills are used along the top edges of off-shoulder tops and evening dresses or at the hemlines of crop trousers.